The process is fairly simple, but you’ll need to write down all your measurements and then compare them to the dealer or OEM recommended specs to get a percentage-of-wear figure for the whole undercarriage. We shot video of the process which you can watch right here: There we asked Rodney Beavers, service manager, and Louie Leak, customer support adviser, to show us how to perform a thorough and accurate assessment of a dozer’s undercarriage wear. To get an example of how to do a thorough and accurate dozer undercarriage inspection, we went to John Deere dealer Flint Equipment in Atlanta, Georgia. Knowing the life expectancy is essential to estimating the value of a used dozer or planning for a rebuild. Replacement parts for the Case are also going to be cheaper.The undercarriage is one of the most expensive components on your crawler dozers. It was first pointed out to me by the guy who rebuilds these machines that Case machines generally have a better ground clearance between the tracks than a JD if you are using it in the woods. If you do decide to buy a crawler loader try to find one with a good 4 in 1 bucket, it will be much handier than a straight bucket. He has saved me alot of money with used parts and good inside info on how or where to get things done if I was doing the labor myself, maybe you have someone like this near you?Īnother thing, any crawler loader that I have seen had narrow pads with short grouser bars, not optimal for flotation or traction on loose ground. There is a guy near me who runs a shop that rebuilds and repairs tracked machines of all types. I won't sell them but I'd be happy to scan a page & E-mail it.Įasy and cheap are relative terms and easy and cheap on a crawler doesn`t relate to easy and cheap on your Chevy pickup, it is going to cost pretty dearly for any part that you have to replace on a crawler and they are usually pretty heavy and dirt/rust encrusted so disassembly will be more of a challenge. I have complete repair manuals for TD-7/TD-8. I had one for a few years & was very happy with it, wish I still had it. You might also consider an International TD-7. They're far better, well worth the extra money, especially with a 6-way blade, IMO a full hydraulic 6-way blade is what really makes a small dozer shine. I think they would be ok just for occational home use dutys-plowing snow-light road maintenance-skidding firewood logs-maybe an occational load of saw logs. They also had problems with stearing clutches. They all had a weak spots in the main frame that were prone to breakage. All 3 machines were logging equipt with winches, canopys with sweeps. Also a 440, nearly the same as a 1010 but had a 2 cylinder gas engine. I've had to do with a couple different 1010's, both had diesel engines. But I'd go for a later clutch/steering arrangement that is more modern and in an oil bath (don't know when that began). It had great pulling power for it's size, and would climb a hill that felt like it was straight up (not really but close ).ĭepending on condition of tracks, the other things can be worked on. I had a Deere 420 crawler, and while it was in tough shape, it was a great tool in the woods. It was built in the very early 60's, if not in '59. Just that parts like tracks and the high-wear parts, might be hard to get. I've heard the engines are troublesome, and whereas I always wanted one, stayed away because of what I'd heard about the engine.īut for a small dozer, that gets around great in the woods with little damage, they can't be beat. It is Deere's first change from the 2-cyl engine (last of the 2's was a 420 in the crawler and I think the 1010 is on the same frame, tranny, and brake/steering clutch system, just a different engine). The Deere 1010 is a small dozer.not meant for pushing trees down or any major earth moving.
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